Few brands in modern fashion have reshaped style, identity, and creativity like Comme des Garçons. Founded in Tokyo by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, the brand has spent over half a century defying expectations and dismantling fashion’s traditional boundaries. What began as a small independent label grew into a cultural movement that fuses art, rebellion, and intellectual depth—while maintaining massive influence in both high fashion and streetwear.

The Origins of Comme Des Garçons

Rei Kawakubo did not start out as a traditional fashion designer. After graduating in fine arts and literature from Keio University, she worked in advertising before launching Comme des Garçons in 1969. The name, which translates to “like boys” in French, reflects her early fascination with gender neutrality and androgyny—concepts rarely explored in fashion at the time.

By the early 1970s, Comme des Garçons had developed a cult following in Japan. Its clothes, often monochromatic and asymmetrical, rejected the polished beauty of Western fashion. Instead, Kawakubo embraced imperfection and irregularity as forms of artistic truth.

The 1981 Paris Debut That Shocked Fashion

When Comme des Garçons debuted in Paris in 1981, the fashion world was unprepared. The collection—entirely black, with oversized, torn, and layered garments—stood in stark contrast to the glamour of the era. Many critics called it “Hiroshima chic,” misunderstanding its message. But Rei Kawakubo wasn’t interested in trends or approval. She was asking a deeper question: What is beauty?

That controversial show became a turning point in fashion history. It introduced the concept of “anti-fashion,” inspiring other Japanese designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake to bring avant-garde ideas to global runways.

The Comme Des Garçons Philosophy

The philosophy of Comme des Garçons is rooted in contrast—between beauty and chaos, simplicity and complexity, destruction and creation. Kawakubo has often said that she designs “for the woman who is independent, who does not care what others think.”

This attitude shows in her work: unfinished hems, deconstructed jackets, and irregular silhouettes that challenge symmetry. CDG Hoodie celebrates imperfection as a creative statement. Rather than creating garments to flatter the body, Kawakubo shapes clothes that express thought and emotion.

The brand’s stores also mirror this philosophy. Dover Street Market, Comme des Garçons’ multi-brand concept store, is more like a living art installation than a typical retail space. Each floor is curated with changing themes, installations, and collaborations that blur the line between shopping and experiencing art.

Facts About Comme Des Garçons’ Legacy

Rei Kawakubo founded Comme des Garçons in Tokyo in 1969 and launched the Paris line in 1981.
The brand employs more than 700 people globally and operates multiple sub-labels including Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Comme des Garçons PLAY, and Comme des Garçons Noir.
In 1994, Comme des Garçons Parfum was launched, with its first fragrance famously defying traditional perfume design—it smelled of tar and ink.
The brand was one of the first to make “genderless fashion” a global concept decades before it became mainstream.
Rei Kawakubo received the CFDA International Designer of the Year Award in 2012 and was the subject of a major exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2017 titled Rei Kawakubo/CDG Shirt: Art of the In-Between.

Comme Des Garçons in Sneaker Culture

Perhaps the most fascinating crossover of Comme des Garçons is its impact on sneaker culture. In the early 2000s, Rei Kawakubo introduced Comme des Garçons PLAY, a diffusion line designed to be more casual and approachable. Its logo—a red heart with eyes created by Polish artist Filip Pagowski—became a symbol of minimalist street style.

The collaboration between Comme des Garçons PLAY and Converse transformed the Chuck Taylor All-Star into a global icon. What was once a simple basketball shoe became a fashion essential, worn by celebrities, artists, and sneaker enthusiasts alike. The design’s charm lies in its simplicity—a classic silhouette with the playful heart peeking from the sole.

Beyond Converse, CDG Converse has collaborated with Nike on a range of limited-edition sneakers. Standout releases include the Nike Air Force 1 Mid Comme des Garçons, known for its raw edges and transparent panels, and the futuristic Nike Foamposite One Comme des Garçons, featuring a sculptural swirl design. These collaborations bridge the gap between avant-garde design and everyday wear, cementing Comme des Garçons as a powerhouse in sneaker culture.

The Fragrance Revolution

While the fashion world knows Comme des Garçons for its conceptual clothing, fragrance lovers recognize the brand for its daring approach to scent. In 1994, Kawakubo launched Comme des Garçons Parfum—a line that ignored traditional perfume rules. The scents didn’t aim to smell “pretty”; they were experiments in emotion and texture.

Fragrances like Comme des Garçons 2 combined metallic and ink notes to mimic the smell of calligraphy, while Wonderwood explored the depth of cedar, cypress, and oud. The unisex nature of these perfumes reinforced Kawakubo’s belief that beauty has no gender or limits.

Global Influence and Cultural Impact

Today, Comme des Garçons is not just a brand—it’s a cultural symbol. From art exhibitions to music videos, the name represents creative freedom and nonconformity. Designers such as Junya Watanabe (who worked under Kawakubo before founding his own line) and Virgil Abloh have credited Comme des Garçons as a foundational influence in redefining fashion for future generations.

Even the way modern fashion is marketed owes something to Comme des Garçons. Kawakubo pioneered the idea of concept-driven branding—collections that tell stories and challenge ideas, rather than simply showcasing trends.

The Future of Comme Des Garçons

More than 50 years after its founding, Comme des Garçons continues to evolve without losing its essence. Rei Kawakubo still designs the main collections herself, refusing to conform to expectations or rely on nostalgia. Each season, she uses the runway as a platform for intellectual exploration—tackling themes like birth, identity, and the human condition.

The brand’s ongoing collaborations, from Nike to Salomon, prove that innovation and commercial success can coexist. Younger generations, especially sneakerheads and streetwear enthusiasts, have embraced the Comme des Garçons ethos: authenticity over conformity.

Conclusion

Comme des Garçons is more than a fashion label—it’s a movement that transformed how the world thinks about clothing, beauty, and creativity. Rei Kawakubo’s refusal to follow rules gave rise to an empire that bridges art and commerce, luxury and streetwear.